Monday, April 11, 2011

#4 - Pakistan - 3 Cups of Tea? ..... Nope....More like 40 Cups of Glorious Tea!!!


”The problem is that we humans have a tendency to seem to often want to dwell on what divides us rather than what unites us... which is odd given that what unites us usually vastly outweighs what divides us.” ~author unknown


Hi Folks!

Tea is the “thing” in Pakistan! Folks here are so amazingly hospitable and part of that hospitality always includes tea! Now the tea here isn’t just any old tea.... it is delicious “chai” tea rich and silky with water buffalo milk and sugar crystals... YUM!!! Tea also includes some sort of food.... maybe buttery cookies and cakes or a spread of food that we would consider to be lunch or a light supper. We are so graciously offered tea everywhere we go.


One of my favorite tea times was at our friend Arslan’s house. Arslan is 22 years old of devout Muslim faith. His nickname is Aladdin and yes he does look like Aladdin on the Disney movie. He is a graduate of Forman and has been one of our wonderful group of young guys who accompany us to provide us some extra measure of safety so we’ve spent several days with him. His father owns a fabric shop which has these amazingly fabulous stacks and stacks of fabrics - embroidered, bejeweled, sequined and bedazzled!! (Peggy, you would be going NUTS over the fabrics). So of course, we wanted to buy fabrics and his father opened his shop after hours so we could have some uninterrupted shopping time and boy did we shop! What absolute fun to pull out bolt after bolt of fabulously colored fabrics! Arslan insisted that we come for tea after our shopping and said his mother had prepared a “few things”... we said we only had time to stay very briefly as we were expected at the home of some Pakistani friends for dinner. When we arrived, Arslan took us into his room and we seven women sat around while he brought in first a beautiful assortment of butter cookies.... then sandwiches.. then eggs... then samosas (little triangle fried pies filled with vegies.....then little salty snacks.... then rice pudding.. the cakes....then chicken fingers... then.... and then .... and THEN! It seemed like the stream of goodies never ended! Plus the wonderful chai tea! What was most precious to me was the way Arslan brought in each item and arranged it carefully on the table in front of us... china plates and tea cups with saucers (when’s the last time you drank from a teacup with a saucer?) It was if it was truly his pleasure to have us as guests in his home. HIs mother, younger brother and sister plus new baby sister all came in to sit with us while we had tea. Arslan showed such sweet respect to his mother and just glowed with his beloved five year old sister. It was such a pleasure to sit with a Muslim family and share tea.


Arslan had also been with us on the day that we toured the old city.... Our group entered the courtyard in front of the historic Mosque just as the call the prayer began. Arslan quietly went to the pool of water in the center of the courtyard to perform his “abulations” or traditional washing before prayer, then quietly entered the Mosque and began his prayer time. I was so impressed that at a time he might have felt uncomfortable with praying in front of others or simply chosen to pass by his prayer time because he was busy with our group, that he didn’t.... he stepped forward in devotion to his faith. I found such admiration for the young man that he is.


I forgot to mention that when we entered his father’s fabric shop, it was during prayer time.. his father was praying when we entered and he continued until his prayers were finished. I found it so wonderful that he didn’t quit just because we were there but as his son did, he continued in his devotion to his faith..


What a day!! Started out at 8:30 this morning with training to participate in the student’s English language assessment. So these unfortunate :-) students gave an oral presentation in front of not only their two English professors but also in front of two native English speakers - so after only four months of English instruction, they have to face assessment by four adults! I think I would have been in tears! It also wasn’t a memorized speech but more off the cuff remarks on a selected topic and then with the professors quizzing them on the subject. Two of the students talked of their fears of bomb blasts.... it’s hard to think that these young people even need to consider the idea that their life could be taken suddenly ... or the life of their loved ones. The students here are very serious about their education and many talk about continuing with Masters degrees... These students are learning tolerance, well spoken and intelligent.. they are just the kind of citizens that their country needs!


We then met with a group of Muslim and Christian faculty members for a discussion about Forman, how they came to be there and what they saw in the future for the university. What an impressive, intelligent, and passionate group they are! One of the big take aways from the discussion was their commitment to religious tolerance on the campus.. there may not be a lot of religious tolerance in the city but on the campus it is alive and well.. It was particularly interesting to speak to a professor who is a member of a small Muslim sect that has under gone extreme persecution to the point of being threatened with death. Many saw Forman go through the government take over and then have been a part of the work to return Forman to it’s former glory!


In the midst of all this conversation and assessment, here comes more tea ... Wonderful chai tea complete with cookies! The students handle their tea cups and saucers like old pros!


Then an hour of conversation (and more tea) with Christian students on campus.. they expressed such hope for their future and their joy at receiving an education at Forman, but also such fear of continued bomb blasts. It must be an incredible challenge to wake up each morning not knowing if today you’ll come face to face with a suicide bomber.


Then MORE tea and some time with a group of about thirty female students both Muslim and Christian to discuss what life is like on Forman campus for a female! They are an extremely intelligent and well spoken group! We discussed arranged marriages (some will have an arranged marriage and some will not - all stated that they would obey whatever their parents decision was), their pleasure in being able to have both Christian and Muslim friends.


After all this excellent conversation, it was off to the Liberty Market in search of handicrafts! OH MY GOODNESS!!! Once again we entered the bedazzled zone!! Row after row of little stalls filled with sequined and embroidered fabrics of every imaginable hue.... plus “bling” on every other conceivable type of surface.... purses, shoes, picture frames, hair accessories.... every kind of glitzy bauble you could think of! Even the mens shoes have elaborate beading.......Just gorgeous to see! My absolute favorite was a tiny shop with a tiny basement accessed via a tiny steep staircase.... both floors were covered from counter top to ceiling with stacks of bangle bracelets...sold in sets of twelve bracelets.... zillions of designs, rhinestones and pearls and beads and electric colors and jewel colors and, and, AND!!. Bangles are just “IT” for girls in Pakistan! They may be wearing scarves covering their heads and loose fitting tunics and pants but they sure know how to put on the peacock display of fabulous color and ornamentation! WOW


One final note... I’ve just been so impressed with the Forman students that we have met... both Muslim and Christian .... what a very generous, intelligent, hospitable and tolerant group they are!!! I’m really going to miss Zohaib, Adeel, Hafiz, Haider, and Arslan ... plus all the other young women and men that I’ve had the privilege of spending time with.


Oh.. forgot to mention that “Hafiz” is the nickname for Hassan who is among a special group of people who have memorized the entire Quran! He told me that it took him two years and he continues to practice so that he wont forget. The word Hafiz is a special word for a special person who has accomplished this great feat of memorizing the entire Quran.


So the adventure continues! Tomorrow is a bit of a lighter day so I’m planning on finding some more time for journaling! I’m sorry that I’ve not been able to send you an email every day! We’ve not had internet service for two days and it just came back on tonight and it’s 10:30 pm..


I would appreciate prayers for Cheryl Burke our fearless leader and Dean of Students for Forman College. She’s doing incredible work with the students here.... that Micah 6:8 thing... “do justice, love kindness, and walk humbly with your God”... she’s living that.


Best love and a big "shout out" to our Mema in South Carolina!!


Much love to all,
Jean

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